Enoteca Pippo - Phil’s Butty Shop


With Brexit dominating the national discussion I suppose we are all wondering a bit about our national and regional differences.

In Italy as usual they are more extreme, with
Campanilismo, being a very local affinity to your villages bell tower.
 



At first sight wandering through the tourist trap town in Umbria, Orvieto, could not be more different to my neck of the woods. Orvieto is another of those Italian picturebook towns [very much in the mould of San Gimignano] ringed by carparks filled with coaches and more history than your eyes can take, and yet similarities are there if you look for them. OK, it’s definitely not sunny [for more than 10 minutes] in my suburb of Manchester, we don’t have a breath-taking Romanesque Gothic medieval church dominating the central square or winding cobbled streets infested with American tourists and on Saturday morning whilst wandering these streets with a fuzzy head I found myself bemoaning the lack of a butty shop. Once the cathedral got too much for me I was fortunate enough to veer off the main drag and stumble across Phil’s Butty Shop [Pippo’s Enoteca].


Whilst they don’t eat soft white buttered bacon butties with their coffee they do eat warm Porchetta stuffed rolls, the meat heavily infused with fennel and so “completely different” [according to Pippo] from Tuscany where rosemary is the predominant flavour.

The rolls may be the chalky Italian variety rather than the soft and yielding Barm Cake (batch, muffin, bap or whatever you call it [english campanilismo?]) and there is no butter to lubricate the bread, only hot pork fat, but the end result with a decent cup of coffee is most satisfying. I departed enlightened and invigorated with renewed belief that variety is the spice of life, possibly because Pippo insisted I tried the local dizzyingly sweet wine (think hevaily sugared Listerine).