Simple food vs Ho-hum Cheffery Part 1 - Star Inn the City, York


Last night I was ravaging a second plate of lovely wife's Roast Chicken contemplating recent gastronautery and the conclusion was that my taste is becoming ever more reductive.

The last week has encompassed under-seasoned gastrofuss in York at a Jay Rayner horibbly mauled (and rightly so but no need to be nasty) gastropub, and the pampelmousse heavy parisian frippery of Gaya Rive Gauche and the best thing I've eaten by a country mile has been a large purple cauilflower heavily roasted with minced chorizo and onion and a sour cream and cheese sauce\topping which I chucked half cut into the oven on Friday. Looked like purplish sick and tasted like amazing purplish sick. The second best thing was lovely wife's Roast Chicken.

7 days previously I could barely contain my excitement on the train to York (without the children) as I envisaged all the lovely things I would soon be eating without constant distraction of little people. Ominously I had read and ignored the recent Jay Rayner review and the sun was sort of out by the river Ouse as we ordered the Lamb Shoulder and the Pork Fillet and accompanying beers. The main courses were brandished by a smiley helpful waitress, one was a Duck & Ham Knuckle ballotine so we asked for the right food and it finally arrived, looking fairly attractive;

Looks can be deceiving. The lamb shoulder had been slow roasted, pulled and then formed into a tower and tasted of not very much which is a skill in itself, almost as if it had been put through a washing machine so I asked for salt and then ate salted, washed out lamb on a half-of-one dimensional barley risotto (surely an Orzotto) with undercooked mirepoix. Lovely wife ate slightly dry and underseasoned pork fillet on a peculiar cake of bubble and squeak interrupted by a conveyor of things we hadn't ordered; onion rings, chips, wine spritzer as so we ate up and headed back to the York Tap at the train station for a couple of additional looseners and Pork Pies.

Pork pies were undoubtedly more satifying and better tasting so Simple Food 1-0 Ho-hum Cheffery.

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Recipes, Lifestyle