We meat again (or great steaks I have known and loved) - ‘onglet pour les Anglais’


Another year
, another 10 days of pleasant brain pickling in Southern France. Almost Groundhog day for alcofrolics I land and immediately fall into the rhythm;  bread wine cheese wine olives wine meat wine.  Rinse (brain) repeat.

The usual suspects lining up slightly differently from last year;
1. Tielle Setoise washed down with Picpoul di Pinet. This year we discover the ‘ancienne’ version with chopped black olives elevating the delicious filling flavours.
2. Onglet was bigger and badder and rarer than last year, if I keep the trend going I will be easting it raw next year and tearing it from a cow in a field the year after.
3. Cheese, in the words of Patience Gray “the best of all foods just as wine is the best of all drinks”, ever changing variety (we are in France) this years highlights were a semi-hard goats cheese from Montesquieu (the kids went to see the goats but the goats don’t come out until 5pm, typical France) and Laguiole with delicious natural blue veins. I tried to take a photo of the tremendous Goats cheese salad and failed spectacularly (again) having eaten it all and drunk a bottle of Frontignan Muscat Sec.

The salad was just right; rocket, walnuts, another goats cheese and a dressing of lemon juice, maple syrup and the superlative Oliviere (the variety) EV olive oil which I’d recently purchase from the local mill Moulin de Mont Ramus a relatively small and amazing operation named after the ancient volcan on whose base it stands. Set amongst their own groves just outside Bessan they have a minimal number of single varietal oils including the a.m. Oliviere and another new (for me) variety Aglandeau which is peppery and hot, super rich in polyphenols. They also have an astounding rose flavoured/scented olive, Amalette, so niche that not a single reference for it exists on the internet!